I’m sewing faster than I’m writing this week. Once I challenged myself to make all the Oliver + S patterns that I own before Miss Cakes outgrows them, I just ran rampant. Partly due to necessity, as I seem drawn to buying her blouses and dresses and not bottoms (which is also the problem I have buying clothes for myself, incidentally). So this week I’ve been sewing all the bottoms I have patterns for to match her new haul of summer Ts.
The cutting: Since it’s still spring and a bit cool, I started with the After-school pants. I intended to make these capris, but in the end they’re just so cute I didn’t cut them off. I’ll just roll the cuffs if she wants them shorter. They’re a bit of a wider leg pant when I compared them to some of her pants that fit well, so right off the bat I took 3″ out of the legs by the ankle. Shown in the cutting diagram below, I left the full width at the hip and the crotch point, angled to 1/2″ taken off both the outseam and the inseam of the pant front and back by the knee, and tapered to 3/4″ off by the ankle. There’s a cute side leg piece in this pattern, which is also pieced on the calf to use a contrast fabric if you wish. Since I didn’t know where I thought I’d be chopping these off at the time, I eliminated this piece and just cut a full length side panel. I didn’t do any fit adjusting with this piece; I thought it would look funny if it tapered down much more than it already is. I did use a contrast fabric for the inside of the pockets and the ruffles, which I love. It’s that bit of detail that makes me keep coming back to these patterns.
The sewing: Really fast, really easy, and quite fun. The little ruffle details are a bit putzy, but so cute. Next time I’d skip the two rows of carefully adjusted gathering rows and just put them through my ruffle foot, and make sure they end in the right spots. All the topstitching makes them look so well finished, I ended up adding a bit extra to mimic my jeans. A single row down the sides of the legs, but a double row to fake a felled seam along the yoke and the crotch seams (pressed to one side instead of open as the pattern has you do). Also a double row around the pockets, as I noted from my own pants. I may fake fly stitching on future pairs to complete the look.
The fit: Pretty darn awesome. They still have room in the legs, so they aren’t a very skinny pant, but much less overwhelming on my petite girl than the original cut. She’s worn them a few times now, and I’ve noticed the front seems to creep down a bit, as I suppose children’s pants tend to do around their little bellies. It might not be a bad idea to scoop the front down by 3/8″, and possibly raise the back by 1/4″ for extra moving coverage. It may alter the shape of the top too much to be able to do a simple elastic casing, but you could always cut that amount off and add a straight grain elastic casing coverage piece on. I’ll have to experiment and try it on another pair. For now though, they’re a great rough and tumble pair for her to play in at the park in the chilly spring breeze. Definitely another winning pattern in my book!
Anyone recognize the fabric? Yep, its leftovers from my own jeans earlier this spring. Mommy and me pants. It’s a thing. For real.
Love from Wisco,
Rebekah and Miss Cakes